Tuesday, 30 June 2009
Monday, 29 June 2009
Sunday, 28 June 2009
Friday, 26 June 2009
Thursday, 25 June 2009
I used some vivid "Lotus Teabox" papers from K&Co that I like. I would not have necessarily used these on a layout, but for me they are great for mini's! They are speciality papers so some are flocked and glittered and some are foiled!Hubby was impressed that I trimmed the BIA wire with Green white and red ribbon to reflect the Italian flag! Didn't like to tell him it was pure fluke!!! LOL!Just need to go back now and add some journaling here and there. Not too much, then it will be complete.
Wednesday, 24 June 2009
Tuesday, 23 June 2009
Monday, 22 June 2009
Friday, 19 June 2009
This album style came about thank to Gina over on the do-crafts forum sharing her idea for buying children's board books from charity shops and mixing the pages up!
Back in March, when I went to the charity shop to buy some, I bought three that were exactly the same size! That's all they had!! Here is the before picture;
Here they are after I ripped off all the coloured pages and separated them out. All beautifully uniform!!
Thursday, 18 June 2009
I remember a friend turning forty and she was completely traumatised by it! It was the end of the world for her. When I reached forty I liked it because I did not think I looked forty and treated that as a bonus that no-one could believe I was!!!! Now I am nearly 50 and my recent layout called 'being 48' made me realise I was feeling just as my friend had done at forty just ten years later!!!! between 40 and 50 lots of family stuff has happened for me. I am dealing with aged parents and my eldest son is about to leave home for university. I think it is more about what is happening around you than what number you are. Because I am coping with 87 and 85 year old parents I find myself worrying about my old age when I should be thinking about travel!!! Hospital appointments that they can no longer get to alone and constant checking on them makes my outlook on life different. Being forty was great as I had no worries at the time! I loved it! Being fifty is a whole new ball game ! :(
As far as techniques are concerned I love the little flower on here! I cut a large scallop using my Super Duper Woodware 3" punch and inked the edges (as is my wont!) with charcoal chalk eye ink pad. I then cut the scallop in a spiral from the outside to the centre, like we used to do to make a colourful snake mobile!!! I then coiled it back up tightly staring from the centre and working outwards. The last piece was anchored with DST and then I secure the whole thing with silicone from the back. Whilst the silicone was still wet I place a brad through the centre to secure it to my layout. This one is a Sassafrass fabric brad.
I wanted to use my new Fiskars "apron lace" punch, so I decided to try and punch the edge of my craft card stock below the patterned paper line. This was risky as the layout was complete by now! As usual I do thing the wrong way around!!! Anyway, it worked! Just make sure you line up the corners by working with the punch upside down so you can see exactly what you are doing!
Studio Calico fortune cookie paper was great as I cut out strips that I felt reflected me at this moment. I hid some other journaling in a library pocket. I even pleated the reverse of the naming strip from the SC paper and used it as a pseudo ribbon and stitched it in place! I love that every piece of these papers is usable!!!
I decided to try cutting out the photograph a la "Claudine Hellmuth" I think it makes a change! TFlx
Wednesday, 17 June 2009
Tuesday, 16 June 2009
Sunday, 14 June 2009
1. Foot pedal (on the floor) this is what controls the speed of sewing, that means your foot! Sometimes there is a max or min speed setting on it or on the machine itself, but really it's down to you and your control. I can't tell you the number of times children used to shout "stop, stop" when the machine was going fast at school and I used to say "take your foot off!!!!!" Seems obvious, but then again............
2. Presser foot This is what you raise and lower with the presser foot lever at the back of the machine. It holds your fabric in place whilst you stitch, it traps the material against the feed dogs that mopve the fabric through the machine slowly.
3. Feed dogs Not sure exactly why "dogs" I suppose because they have sharp teeth, but they certainly "feed" the material through the machine at a controlled speed. One of the most common errors with sewing is pushing the fabric through too quickly, or pulling it through too quickly which creates uneven stitches. Just let the dogs feed it through at their own pace!
4. Tension This is a dial on the front of the machine somewhere with numbers that regulate how evenly the thread is allowed through the machine. Your machine has two threads, a top thread on a reel of cotton and a bottom thread on a small "spool" or "bobbin" in a "spoolcase" or "bobbincase." (From now on it will be known as the spool and spoolcase.) The tension on each thread must be perfect for an even stitch. i will explain this later.
5. Take Up Lever This is the lever on the front of the sewing machine that goes up and down, taking the thread up and down to loop around the lower thread. If you have problems stitching, it is often because this has been missed out or has become unthreaded. When starting to stitch, this "tyake up lever" must be at the top of its cycle, at it's highest point. The quicker you learn this, the less likely you are to have to keep re-threading the needle!
6. Balance Wheel This is the large wheel on the side of the machine that turns when you sew. You may need to turn it to move the "take up lever" to its top most position if you have an older machine. You must always turn it towards you. Some older machine also have a a system of disengaging the gear using this wheel, so you can wind a spool full of thread without the needle racing up and down!
7. Reverse lever or button Somewhere on your machine will be a revers button or lever so that you can stitch forwards and then backwards a few stitches to make a secure start and finish to your line of stitching. It acts a s a "casting on" stitch would in hand sewing.
8. Thread guides These are little hooks that the thread must be guided around to follow the correct path to the needle. It varies from machine to machine, how many there are and how you thread the cotton around them. There is usually one at the rear of the machine along the top and also one at the top of the machine needle. Some machine have another extra one too.
9. Needle Unlike hand sewing needles, the "eye" is in the point! The top of the needle, or the "shank" has a flat section to it and depending on your make of machine the flat part of the shank either faces the back or to the side. It is important to get this right when changing the needle as it can make the machine sew unevenly and even miss stitches. Most sewing machine needles thread from front to back, but some do thread from side to side, so check yours out!! This is vital!!
10. Spool case or bobbin case This metal case houses the spool or bobbin which contains the lower thread. Sometimes it is all part of the machine itself, permanently attached and sometimes the spool case can be one that is removed to load the spool inside. You need to check what yours is!! The one above remains in the machine. My Bernina machine has a removable spool case.
11. Stitch Selector button, dial or lever If you have a 'posh' machine it will do some stitches including embroidery and blind hemming stitch. The more expensive the machine, the more stitches you have to choose from!!! Sometimes this can be confusing!! Half a dozen stitch choices is enough for a beginner!
12. Stitch length button This does "what it says on the tin" It alters how long your straight stitching is!!! An average stitch length is 2.5. This is enough to be strong for seams but also big enough to unpick if you make any mistakes!!! Very long straight stitches are used for gathering fabric up easily.
13. Stitch width button This alters how wide your zig zag stitch will be. Usually you have a choice of 0 width up to 4 or 5 mm wide. Average is about 2.5. again. If you want to stitch straight, this must be set to 0 for obvious reasons!!
14. Sewing table (No I don't mean the table where you sit and sew!!!!) Your machine may have a flat bed that you can place your fabric on to sew or it may have a removable sewing table. Flat bed machines are great for large pieces of flat sewing or quilting. A removable sewing table is better if you are making clothes, so you can get sleeves and cuffs on to the machine easily.
15. Reel holder This is the long pin where you place your reel of cotton for sewing. There are often two of these on a machine in case you want to sew with two colours in a twin needle. Always use the reel holder on the left and the cotton should come off so the reel turns in an anti clockwise direction.
Ok those are the most important ones! Read digest and then destroy this top secret information. I will be back to test you, so lets hope you were paying attention!!! Lol!!!
Driving lesson one is over!!
Saturday, 13 June 2009
Have a great day!! xx
Friday, 12 June 2009
The blank cardboard folders were from Papermill and the papers are attached using double sided tape and gluestick. I then trimmed around the edge with a craft knife and inked all the edges with a chalk eye ink pad. I have left the spines blank so whoever buys them can label them up themselves. I added lace, buttons and stamped images to embellish one side of each one, but kept it all flat so they would not get torn off. TFL x
Thursday, 11 June 2009
Wednesday, 10 June 2009
Yes, it took ages!! But more effective that silicone glue!! I need to get my Foof-a-la buttons restocked soon at the rate I am using them!! That Sassafrass paper was perfect for this too with those "vintage yummy" images on there too! Still have not mastered how to avoid flash glare in my glossy photo's with my new camera! trouble is I am always photographing in poor light!! Need to work out this 'Iso' thing or save my picture taking until the mornings! I'm always last minute wanting to post on here though!! Don't you just love the retro telly in the background of this pic??? I was going to trim the picture, but decided against it as we had that old black and white telly for years! At least until I was about ten or eleven!! I remember it well!
I used the threading water punch down the right hand edge of this Bazzill Bling card. I had a very slight unevenness with the punching, so I decided to thread some holes with Organza ribbon to hid the floor! Happy accident!! See I admitted it!! TFLx
Tuesday, 9 June 2009
Fabric comes in several widths, usually the most popular fabric widths are 45" which is 115cm wide or 60" which is 150cm wide.
The other thing you must know is if the fabric has "nap." Nap means that the fabric has a one way design i.e. flowers that only grow upwards or it is a "pile " fabric like velvet that stokes only one way. Avoid both of these types if you are a novice as they require skill in handling that is best left until you have more confidence.As we have prepared all the pattern pieces, we just need to know how to fit them on the fabric. Your instruction sheet has diagrams of "layouts" for either fabric width that you may have chosen. My fabric was 45" wide, so it showed me to fold mine in half with the selvedges together, so I had a fold along one edge.
Take time with the folding and smoothing and make sure the selvedges meet exactly. Accuracy at this time saves problems later. I lay it out on the lounge carpet and I usually fold it with the right sides together (hidden inside) so that they don't get any marks on. It's at this point that Barney usually decides to walk over the whole thing and lie on it!! What a dog!!
Sunday, 7 June 2009
This final layout used a sketch and combined it with the weekly challenge over on UKs. Some stitching and the fab rip strip keeps the sewing theme. I had to make a handmade embellishment, so I gathered some ribbon using small running stitches and secured it. I decorated the centre with two buttons. I wont bore you with anymore photo's of this, but I wanted to show that with the right papers for the topic and with lots of details even the most boring photo's can be scrapped to look pretty and they are very significant to me as they form part of an important step in my life. Realising a goal! Straight into my 'Book Of Me!' TFLx
P.S. More sewing to come tomorrow. Just giving those not following that a break!!
Saturday, 6 June 2009
To make sure you join the right piece to the right piece you need a clue as to which pieces go together. You may also need to know which is the front of a garment and which is the back -this may seem obvious, but when they are all flat it isn't!!
N.B. With some fabrics it is also helpful to mark which is the right side (from now on known as RS) and which is the wrong side (from now on known as WS), but we'll talk about that later!
NotchesThese are the diamonds on the cutting line and they are either single or double. When cutting out, you are supposed to cut out and around them. It seems like a real faff, but it is well worth it later and can make sure you don't make a mistake when you are making up. One notch means the front and two notches together means the back. Occasionally you have three notches together too!
Tailor tack dotsThese are little filled in dots or open dots. They may seem pointless but again they show important marks for you to sew up to so you must transfer them on to your fabric, I'll show you how at a later date.
Grain line arrowsThese are the thick black lines with arrow heads on each end, sometimes curved ends. All fabric is made on a machine and has a 'grain.' If the grain is straight the fabric hangs straight, across the grain gives a stretch that can be useful at times but also can ruin the way a garment hangs, so it's important to understand about grain before you cut out.
Grain Woven fabrics are made on a loom. The threads running down the loom are called "Warp" threads and the threads woven in and out going across the loom on a shuttle, are called "Weft." Warp threads are stronger, so we always line our pattern pieces up with the warp threads. How?? Well it's easy, when you buy fabric on the roll the two side edges are neat and they do not 'fray', that means threads do not come off them. These two side edges are called "selvedges." All threads parallel to these selvedges are the warp threads. If your grain arrows are parallel to the selvedges then you are fine! Here's how to do it!
Place your pattern piece on the fabric, weight it down with something like your pin cushion or your scissors. (More about folding and pinning on fabric tomorrow)
Grab a tape measure or a ruler and measure from the grainline to the selvedge at each end of the line near the arrow heads and make sure the measurements are identical before you place a pin in each end of the grainline. Simple! Sometimes needs some jiggling to get the piece straight, but it is important and near enough is not good enough!! It needs to be exactly the same measurement at each end! As you can see I still work in inches but you use metric if you are happy with it!!!